Goose down sleep socks – what could be better when you’re snuggled inside your sleeping bag but your feet are still a tad bit chilly?

Beings OffGrid wanted a pair for his colder backpacking adventures and we’d already made down quilts and a balaclava, why not ensure toasty tootsies too?

And so the quest for easy-to-make down socks began…

To make sewing these down socks easy, I developed a one-piece pattern with two simple darts to create the sock shape, which eliminates piecing in the sole. All you have to sew is the darts, the front and toe seams, connect the inner and outer pieces, and then stuff and close. Simple, right?

No? Well, if you want to see me make these down socks before you try them on your own, watch How to Make Goose Down Socks at JoelHornOffGrid. Otherwise, let’s get started!

Pattern

First, you’ll have to create your pattern, so we took a picture of ours on a grid. It’s not a too-complicated shape so you should be able to look at the measurements and replicate it on paper. I used regular tissue paper but you can use what you have, taping pieces together if needed.

This is a one size fits many. I wear women’s 8.5 and these sleep socks are plenty roomy but super comfy. Our son wears men’s 11 and they fit him, as well. Keep in mind that the insulation comes from the loft, so roomy is good!

But if you do want (or need) to adjust the size, simply shorten or lengthen the foot area a little between the dart and the toe area. Just be sure you don”t make them too snug.

Materials

In addition to a sewing machine and basic sewing supplies, you will need:

• Calendered nylon (we used a 24in x 72in leftover piece of 1.5oz)
• Goose down (we used 1.2oz 800 FP but will up it to 1.6oz next time)
• Shock cord (we used about 2 feet)
• Cord locks (2)

Instructions

1. Cut 4 sock pieces from calendered nylon. Note that each piece is cut on the fold.
2. Open up each piece and mark the location of the darts, heel tab and the start of the stitch line on the shiny side of the calendered nylon. Although I used the same color for both the inside and outside, I’d recommend using different colors, if possible, to make construction even easier.
3. Cut 4 strips of nylon about 1/2in wide by 2in long for heel tabs, which will help keep your inner layer in place when you take off your sleep socks.
4. Sew the heel tabs securely in place on the shiny side of the fabric.
5. Sew both darts on each piece, backstitching at both ends of the stitch line, and trim to a 1/4in seam allowance.
6. On each outer sock piece, fold in half with the right sides together, matching the top, toe, and dart seams. Pin within the seam allowance, if desired. Sew a 1/4in seam from 2in below the top to the toe. Again, always be sure to backstitch whenever you start or stop sewing.
7. Match up the toe, centering the seam on the tab. Pin, as needed, and sew a 1/4in seam there, as well.
8. On each inner sock piece, do the same thing except use a 5/8in seam and trim the seam allowance down to 1/4in after sewing. DO NOT trim off the toe tab.
9. Turn your outers and inners right side out.
10. For each sock, with right sides together, match up an outer with an inner at the top front and sew them together from the top edge down to the front seam 2in below. Be sure to overlap the front seam a little and backstitch so there’s no hole there for down to escape through. Repeat on the other side.
11. Turn your sock pieces inside out again, overlap the toe tabs and sew each to the seam allowance of the opposite toe.
12. Then overlap the heel tabs and sew them together securely.
13. Reach your hand inside the outer and grab the toe of the inner through the fabric, and turn the sock right side out with the liner inside the outer cover.
14. Weigh your sock and then stuff each with down, pushing it well into the toe area. Re-weigh your sock and add more down until you reach the amount you want.
15. Align your inner and outer at the top edge and pin. Remember that the inner is smaller than the outer so you should have some foldover of the outer fabric on both sides at the front. Sew the top closed 1.5in from the edge.
16. Sew the layers together 1/4in from the edge to create a fold line.
17. Fold on the stitchline and sew down the raw edge. Don’t worry if the fold is slightly above the stitchline.
18. Fold the top over 3/4in and pin. Then sew 1/2in from the top edge to form your casing.
19. Run shock cord through the casing, attach the cord lock and tie the cord ends, then pat your sock until you get the down evenly distributed and you’re done!

Keep in mind that these are are sleep socks – for warmth while sleeping or just sitting around. They’re NOT slippers. They’re NOT for hiking. If you walk around on them, not only will you be immediately acquainted with the cold you’re trying to avoid, you might rip a hole in them and lose your down altogether. So treat them as you would your down sleeping bag/quilt.

For a detailed tutorial, see How to Make Goose Down Socks at JoeHornOffGrid.

Interested in More MYOG Projects?

In addition to our goose down gear (a trio of down quilts, several pairs of down socks and a down balaclava), we’ve also made stuff sacks, a few merino wool shirts, a fleece hoodie, and a silnylon rain suit. My goal is to simplify the construction process of each project and then share the results here and on OffGrid’s YouTube channel.

So go subscribe to JoelHornOffGrid on YouTube and be sure to click the notification bell so you know when we upload more MYOG projects.